We are in hiding today. Yesterday turned out to be an unexpectedly long day, chocked full of worry at the end about riding in the dark without lights, prescription glasses, etc.  But today, we found an oasis where we can relax and recharge our batteries We found a guest house a few kms outside of the town of Hoi An. When we arrived last night, mentally and physically exhausted, the owner and his family welcomed us into their place with a warm, home-cooked dinner. It was exactly what we needed.  Ate some delicious Vietnamese meals at our guest house We talked to the owner, Hoang, for a little bit about the state of tourism in Vietnam. He told us that travelers haven't returned in the same numbers since the pandemic ended. While international chains have managed to survive, a lot of local, family-run guesthouses, restaurants and other service-oriented businesses have unfortunately gone under. I originally assumed that the reason why all the accomodations have been so cheap was because we were visiting Vietnam after their local national holiday, Tet. But the reason prices are so depressed is that the tourism industry is hurting for tourists. That's so sad. I wish a lot more people would visit this amazing and beautiful country. If you're reading this, I hope you'll consider Vietnam for your next vacation!  The plan for today is to do nothing, except this  Stopping to smell the orchids  A little ride around the neighbourhood  "Cadres and people of the most peaceful village determined to successfully build a model new rural area" All over the country, all the propaganda/community service billboards have the same art style. The smiling faces look so genial and convincing!  Cemetery at the edge of the village where we're staying  Getting ready for a night out on the town Our guesthouse has red lanterns strung out in the courtyard, so pretty! Hoang helps us hail a taxi into town, because we plan to have a few drinks tonight.  Fancy restaurant? No. Fancy Ca Phe... Throughout our travels in Latin America, we discovered that we were actually moving along the "Gringo Trail". Basically, the Gringo Trail is a network of cities, towns and sites strung out like pearls on the Pan American Highway. They attract the most foreign tourists, due to their proximity to a UNESCO heritage site, quaint colonial buildings or a natural feature like a volcano or hot springs. Hotels, restaurants and other businesses that cater to foreigners spring up like fungus clinging to the walls of these Gringo Trail towns, the people who work there all speak English and serve food and deliver culture that's oriented to Gringo tastebuds. We just discovered that Hoi An is on the Vietnamese version of the Gringo Trail. Again, there is a Vietnamese word for gringo/farang, but I just can't pronounce it...  This was one of the highest rated restaurants on Google... by gringos Total Gringo Trail hangout! French fries and onion rings on the menu. At every table, tourists and ex-pats were exchanging stories about the temple they just visited, debating about whether the food was better in Laos or Cambodia, sharing which cab-hailing app was the best in SE Asia, etc. When you're out of your element for awhile, I guess it feels good to be around things that are familiar. Familiar tastes, sounds and complexions...  The restaurant served up a nice deep-fried spring roll but the fish we ordered was terrible. Undercooked and soggy This place didn't really suit our vibe. We came to Vietnam not to taste, see and hear the familiar. I thought back to how we just came from Central Vietnam without seeing a single farang for days. I kinda liked that better than this. It's definitely selfish and egotistic. Everyone wants to feel like Magellan, to be the first of your tribe to stake new ground, discover new lands, food and people, blah blah. But the feel of a Gringo Trail town really cheapens the experience for us. It makes us feel like we're just one of so many mass-produced sight-seers on a touristic conveyor belt, having the country and culture watered down and served up to you in small bite-sized packages, in between mouthfuls of french fries and hamburgers. I feel like when I'm visiting a foreign country, it should be the other way around. In the end, everyone travels the way they're comfortable doing so. There's no real right or wrong way, just what's right for you.  We passed by this restaurant on the way out. Shoulda ate here instead. The food looked good... I bet french fries aren't on the menu here! Not that we would have known it or not, unless Google Translate informed us. Look, I get it: we have a supremely weak grasp of the language, we've enjoyed our stay at a couple of western-style lux hotels... It's so very hypocritical. We are gringos, but we just don't like to be.  Walking the quiet neighbourhood streets, we can hear the roar of the ocean just a few dozen meters away Doing some sightseeing tomorrow. Gringo-Trail Style! *shrug*
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