Aug

Tue Aug 16 2011: Reflections in Isafjordur

It's still raining today. Which is okay because it's a rest day for us today, so we get to walk around the town a little and eat and sleep a lot - typical vacation activities. It also gives me a chance to jot down a few notes about Icelandic culture.


Bikes are parked for the day beneath a dark blanket of showering sky.

I've looked through the pictures we've taken the past couple of days and I'm struck by how homogenous the palette of colors is: a Seurat-smattering of pale greens and muted browns beneath overcast skies. The culture is very much the same, Icelanders are very proud of their unchanging heritage. After the first settlers brought their Norse language to Iceland, the rest of Europe's tongues slowly evolved over the last 1000 years, giving rise to German, Swedish, Danish, Norweigan, etc. Any 9th century linguistic roots are virtually unrecognizable today. However Icelandic has remained exactly the same. If Leif Erickson were to step off the next IcelandAir flight, after claiming his broadsword from checked baggage, he would be able to converse perfectly with any native Icelander. Then he'd plunder and pillage them...


The main strip of Isafjordur

Two wheels of a different kind

The town is fairly deserted. Population is only 4,000. Used to be a lot more, but severe fishing
regulations led to a decline in the industry and many left the region in the 80s.

Did you know native Icelanders are not allowed to name their kids outside of anything approved by the Icelandic Naming Committee? Each year an approved book of Icelandic names is published, so that Icelandic names retain their Norse flavor. Neither Gene or Neda are on the list, but we are working on it. I might get away with Gynn Leisson.


The coastline figures quite prominently in the town's economy. Most of the commerce around here centres around the fishing industry.

Despite its name, Iceland is quite green. They should really call it something more appropriate
like Greenland, which incidentally is quite icy... What the?

The nautical theme continues

Giving Neda huge props...

All the outside-facing doors in Isafjordur swing to the inside. This is so the strong winds that are common to the area don't blow the doors off the hinges when they are opened. We thought many shops were closed when we tried to pull open doors. Storekeepers inside were snickering at the dumb tourists, although I don't know why: If I can't come in, you can't have my Krona...


Those of you who know I have an addicition to energy drinks will be happy to know I found the Icelandic equivalent: ORKA!!!

ZOMG! Yggdrasil! My retro-Linux geekness just exploded.

Speaking of which, food in Iceland is insanely expensive. On average, a meal will cost between 4,000-5,000 Krona per person, which is about $40CDN. We are probably dropping over $100CDN a day each just on food alone!

Iceland used to be a very prosperous society until the financial crisis, which they are still climbing out from under. The citizens are the most literate in Europe, having published the most books per capita, although someone snarkily remarked, "They may be published, yes, but has anyone even read their books...?"


The white house/red roof combination is quite a popular color scheme in Iceland

Statue depicting the founders of Isafjordur: fishermen

St Geroge slaying the dragon - by an Icelandic sculptor. Iceland is home to a burgeoning art community

Speaking of which, we met this NYC cinematographer just outside the restaurant we went to for dinner. He was setting up an artists colony in the West Fjords, fostering art in Iceland. He seemed really happy to see someone who wasn't blond and blue-eyed...! :)

The restaurant was called Tjoruhusid. No sign or anything to mark it as such, it was just a really neat log cabin. Also, no menu, just cafeteria-style benches and a buffet style offering of the best seafood we've ever eaten. The staff just cooked whatever they caught that day so everything is very fresh. I was introduced to my new favorite seafood - cod cheeks. OMG, so decadent - like a fishy version of KFC chicken skin...


Tjoruhusid: Best. Seafood. Eva.

Tjoruhusid inside: Worst. Seating. Eva.

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